If you are just starting your journey into fabrication or looking to refine your shop’s production, mild steel MIG welding is likely where you’ll spend 90% of your time. Mild steel (also known as low-carbon steel) is the most commonly welded material on the planet. It’s forgiving, affordable, and incredibly strong when joined correctly.
MIG welding (Gas Metal Arc Welding)is often touted as the easiest process to learn, but "easy to start" doesn't mean "easy to perfect." To get those high-quality, stack-of-dimes welds that pass industrial inspections, you need to understand the relationship between your machine, your wire, and your gas.

In this guide, we’ll walk through the essentials of mild steel MIG welding, from selecting the right consumables to dialing in your machine for a perfect bead.
Mild steel is the "Goldilocks" of metals. It has a low carbon content (usually less than 0.3%), which makes it highly ductile and easy to weld without the risk of cracking that you find in high-carbon steels. Whether you are building a utility trailer, repairing farm equipment, or working on a structural steel frame, mild steel MIG welding provides the speed and strength needed for the job.
Before you strike an arc, you need to ensure your "stack" is configured for carbon steel. Using the wrong liner or drive rolls is the fastest way to ruin a Saturday morning in the shop.
For industrial-grade mild steel MIG welding, you want a machine with a Constant Voltage (CV) output. Modern inverter-based welders, like those from Megmeet, offer much smoother arcs and better "arc starts" than older, heavy transformer machines.
Since mild steel wire is solid and relatively stiff, you should use V-groove drive rolls. These grip the wire firmly without deforming it, ensuring a consistent feed through the torch.
For steel, a standard steel spiral liner is perfect. Make sure your contact tip matches your wire diameter exactly. If you are using .035" wire, use a .035" tip. A loose tip causes arc instability.
In mild steel MIG welding, your consumables do the heavy lifting. If you pick the wrong wire or gas, no amount of skill will save the weld.
The industry standard for mild steel is ER70S-6.
ER: Electrode Rod
70: 70,000 psi tensile strength
S: Solid wire
6: Contains higher levels of deoxidizers (silicon and manganese) to help weld through light rust or mill scale.
If your metal is perfectly clean and sandblasted, you can use ER70S-3, but for most general fabrication, ER70S-6 is the safer, more versatile choice.
While you can use 100% CO2 (it’s cheap and penetrates deep), it creates a lot of spatter and a rougher bead. For the best results, use 75% Argon / 25% CO2 (often called C25). It provides:
A stable, smooth arc.
Minimal spatter (less cleaning time!).
Great puddle control for out-of-position welding (vertical or overhead).
Setting your machine for mild steel MIG welding involves balancing two main variables: Voltage and Wire Feed Speed (WFS).
| Metal Thickness | Voltage (V) | Wire Feed Speed (IPM) | Suggested Joint Type |
| 20 Gauge (1.0mm) | 14–15V | 120–140 IPM | Lap or Butt |
| 1/8" (3.2mm) | 17–18V | 200–220 IPM | Fillet or Tee |
| 3/16" (4.8mm) | 19–20V | 280–300 IPM | Fillet |
| 1/4" (6.4mm) | 21–22V | 350–380 IPM | Multi-pass or Beveled |
Pro Tip: Always listen to the arc. A perfect mild steel MIG weld should sound like bacon frying. If it sounds like a loud crackling or a machine gun, your wire is too fast. If it’s a hollow hissing sound, your voltage is too high.
Even though ER70S-6 wire can handle some grime, you will always get a better weld if you grind the mill scale (the dark grey coating on new steel) off until the metal is shiny. This prevents porosity and ensures the weld fuses deep into the base metal.
Work Angle: Usually 90 degrees to the joint, or 45 degrees for a fillet weld.
Travel Angle: Hold the gun at a 5 to 15-degree angle.
Pushing (pointing toward the direction of travel) gives you a flatter bead and better visibility.
Pulling (dragging) gives you deeper penetration but makes it harder to see where you are going.
Keep the distance from your contact tip to the metal between 3/8" and 1/2". If you pull back too far, you lose gas coverage and the arc becomes "lazy."
Even pros run into issues. Here is how to spot and fix the "Big Three" defects:
Porosity: These are tiny holes that look like a sponge. It’s caused by wind blowing away your gas, a clogged nozzle, or painting over rust. Fix: Check your gas flow and clean your metal.
Cold Lap (Lack of Fusion): The weld looks okay but is just sitting on top of the metal without melting in. Fix: Increase your voltage or slow down your travel speed to allow the heat to soak in.
Undercut: A groove melted into the base metal right at the edge of the weld. Fix: Reduce your voltage or shorten your arc length.
No. If you use pure Argon on mild steel, the arc will be unstable, and the puddle will not "wet out" properly. You need at least some CO2 or Oxygen mixed in to stabilize the arc on carbon steel.
.023" / .025": Best for very thin sheet metal (auto body).
.030": A great "all-around" wire for home shops and light fabrication.
.035": The industrial standard for 1/8" to 1/2" steel.
.045": Used for heavy plate and high-production manufacturing.
Usually, no. Mild steel is very weldable at room temperature. However, if the steel is thicker than 3/4" or if it is extremely cold (below freezing), a little bit of preheat (about 150°F) helps prevent the weld from cooling too quickly.
"Birdnesting" is when the wire tangles at the drive rolls. This usually happens because your drive roll tension is too tight or your liner is dirty. Keep the tension just tight enough to feed the wire without slipping.
Mastering mild steel MIG welding is about control. Once you have your ER70S-6 wire loaded and your C25 gas flowing at 25-30 CFH, the rest comes down to "seat time." Watch the puddle, listen for that consistent sizzle, and don't be afraid to tweak your knobs until the bead lays flat and smooth.
By using high-quality equipment—like the digital power sources offered by Megmeet—you can take the guesswork out of your setup. Features like synergic programming can automatically suggest the right voltage and wire speed, allowing you to focus on your technique rather than the machine's settings.
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